tensioner would normally push against but concentrate on getting the driving side (right hand side as you look at it or the side nearest the alternator) as straight and as tight as you can. If you can’t get the chain nice and tight don’t be tempted to cheat and move one of the sprockets to achieve it. Instead remove the cam shaft sprocket itself (with out moving the cam shaft) and use one of the other key ways in the sprocket centre to line up the sprocket on the wood ruff key. In other words pull the sprocket off turn it one way a bit and put it back on! The key ways are unequally spaced to allow for fine tuning. Once achieved you can refit the tensioner. I found it easier to assemble it on the bench, compress it then fix a cable tie around it to hold it all together. Don’t forget to cut it off when it’s in position!
To set the Injector pump timing turn the crankshaft until the 13 degree mark on the flywheel lines up with the timing pointer. Both valves on number one cylinder should be closed (fully up.) Remove the injector pump. Now measure exactly halfway between the two bolt holes as shown in the picture to the right and make a mark. Next scribe a line between the mark and the centre of the bolt hole to the right as shown below. What you are trying to achieve next is a mark in the 4 o’clock position. (The bolt hole on the right
being 3 o’clock and is pointing towards the front of the engine) The exact position is 20 degrees from the line you just scribed and is obtained using a protractor or similar. (See below) Make a mark at the 20 degree and check to see if the centre of the master spline (the widest one) on the pump drive lines up with this mark. If it does then great. If its miles out or your replacing the drive like I was then its a bit of a fiddle to get it to line up ok as you have to remove the drive to adjust it.
Don’t forget to remove the grub screw hidden behind the gasket which seals the oil filter housing to the block If you need to remove the pump drive! (See photo below) Incidentally there is a short drive piece which goes in between the Injector pump and drive gear, lift this out to clearly see the master spline. Once happy there is a special tool to take out any slack and give you the timing pointer setting. I didn’t have one to hand so turned the drive clockwise by hand and took up the slack (2 mm..)
Ensure the ratchet springs back onto the tooth when pulled back to check if the ratchet spring is fitted correctly. Give the piston a light tap so that the ratchet engages with the tooth and the chain is held straight. Fit the anti rattle pad so that it just sits short of the chain (0.10 inch) and your done! Refit the front cover, water pump, dog nut, fan etc but leave the rocker cover off if you intend to set up the Injector pump timing as well.
I then transferred this 2 mm slack and measured 2 mm down from the scribed line to establish the timing pointer mark. Once done I refitted the timing pointer and lined it up with my new mark and refitted the short drive piece. Next replace the Injector pump ensuring the master spline in the pump is approx in the 4 O clock position and the mark on the pump body lines up with the timing pointer. Connect everything back up and you should be good to go.
Incidentally if you’ve not adjusted the valve timing and gone straight onto the pump timing you may find that its impossible to get the pump master spline to line up with the 20 degree mark even though the 13 degree mark on the flywheel is in the correct position. The reason being is that if the timing chain has gone slack or stretched then this will affect the position of the cam shaft in relation to the crankshaft and so affect the Injector pump drive as its the cam shaft that drives this.
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