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The Engine Timing on a 2.25 Diesel is a much talked about subject. Its often regarded as one of its weak points and there is plenty of confusion as to how to set it up correctly. The procedure is covered in the Land Rover repair operations manual and as long as its followed to the letter then all should be well. Its quite an involved procedure but well worth the time to get the most performance from your engine and to ensure its longevity, Optimum fuel consumption and smooth running. Once set there is no real quick way to check the timing like you can on a petrol engine model but its worth doing on a regular basis. Going by the Instructions in the manual and converted into layman's terms this is how I set my timing on my Diesel Engine.

It all starts with the timing chain, access to this is behind the front cover which means removal of the front panel, radiator, dog nut and to make life easier either remove the water pump or the thermostat housing complete with by-pass hose and fan. I set up mine from scratch during the engine re assembly so the pictures may show a more stripped engine than yours may be. The picture on the left shows what you will see once the front cover is removed. Take care when lifting it away as the sump gasket also

seals the bottom of the front cover so have one to hand in case it gets damaged. Remove the rocker cover and set the valve clearances in the normal way using the rule of 9. Next rotate the engine crankshaft clockwise until the exhaust valve on number one cylinder (the valve at the very front of the engine) is nearly fully open (down.) The ‘EP’ mark on the flywheel (Exhaust peak) should now be visible and approaching the timing pointer on the flywheel housing. (The window for this is on the right hand side

rear of the engine.) At this stage you can remove the chain tensioner by unbolting it and lifting away. There is a couple of springs present so be careful these don’t fly away, never to be found again! The timing chain can now be lifted off the crankshaft and cam shaft sprocket and the rubber lined anti slap pad can be un bolted. The timing chain and sprockets as well as all the tensioner components should be checked for wear and if in any doubt then replace them. Next gently rotate the crankshaft clockwise until the ‘EP’ mark now lines up exactly with the timing pointer. Now set up a dial test Indicator and stand as shown below with it touching the exhaust valve on number one cylinder. (This should still be nearly fully open!) Reset the dial face to read zero and make a mark somewhere   

on the top left outer rim (just under the teeth)of the cam shaft sprocket. Make another mark on the block itself dead in line with the mark on the camshaft. (I used an automatic centre punch to do mine.) Now rotate the cam shaft clock wise and watch the dial test indicator. The needle should move around the gauge as you SLOWLY rotate the cam shaft. As soon as the needle returns to the zero mark …..STOP. Make another mark in the same place on the camshaft in line with the original mark you made on the block.

Now accurately measure the half way point between the two marks on the cam shaft sprocket and make another mark to indicate the halfway point between the two marks. Rotate the cam shaft anti clock wise until the centre mark is just past the mark on the block then turn clockwise to line it up exactly. Take time to do this as precise as you can. The needle on the dial gauge should still be at zero. Double check that the ‘EP’ mark still lines up with the pointer on the flywheel casing and if so refit the timing chain by placing around the crankshaft sprocket first then pulling it straight before engaging with the teeth on the cam shaft sprocket. Don’t worry about the length of chain that the

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TIMING

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