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I bolted the rebuilt housing to the axle using a new gasket and concentrated on the brake back plate. On Inspection it was apparent that one of the brake cylinders was seized solid so I decided to replace both using new parts. The stripped back plate was given the parts washer treatment and the new cylinders were bolted in place. The shoes were good for a few more miles yet so were cleaned up and re used. The half shaft was inspected before sliding back in and ensuring it engaged with the
diff. The stub axle and back plate were bolted back on using a new gasket (they share the same bolts) and I set about working on the hub. First thing is to remove the hub seal and lift out the inner wheel bearing. After the hub had a session in the parts washer I packed the inspected bearing with fresh grease and tapped in a new metal/leather hub seal after soaking it in EP 90. The hub was then carefully slid into place and the outer bearing and thrust washer put back followed by the main nut.
Rotate the hub then tighten a bit more till the nuts nice and tight. Refit the lock washer and lock nut and spin the hub to make sure it doesn't bind. Knock one edge of the lock washer over to secure against the lock nut. I wanted to remove the FWH’s as I had an issue with the O /S one and personally think they’re more trouble than they're worth. So I replaced the FWH with the original drive member as originally fitted along with a new gasket. After which I fitted a new spirolox ring, spacer and
finally the castle nut. This was finished off with a new split pin. Clean up the brake drum and refit using the small drum retaining screws to secure. (A tip here is to use copper slip to make future removal easier) Finally smear grease around the ‘O’ ring on the drive member and knock the small hub cap on. Refit the road wheel and tighten to 80 lb. Rotate the wheel by hand and swivel back and forth to make sure all is well. Refit the 2 track rod ends to the bottom of the swivel housing and refill both the housing
and axle with oil. If you haven’t done so already make sure the brake pipes are reconnected and the system bled before adjusting. After road testing for a couple of hundred miles lift the wheel off the ground and check for play in the bearing. If movement is apparent then it may need tightening up a touch as they do settle in after a run.
Although this is quite a straight forward and satisfying job it does need doing correctly as it affects both the steering and brakes. With that in mind carry out this work with the help of an operations manual to make sure nothing is left out. As stated on the home page this is only a guide to what I did and shouldn’t be taken as a complete step by step guide!