The ball joints on the track rod were similarly seized in place so rather than mess about with it I put one of those on the list as well. The Drag link, relay arms and drop arm were then stripped and painted. I pre assembled the drag link and ball joints on the bench before smearing the steering Relay with copper slip and bolting that into place. Next I fitted the drop arm vertically to the steering box ensuring that the box was mid way its travel by rotating the steering wheel lock to lock and positioning it midway.
The two relay levers at first glance look like the are 90 degrees to one another but in fact they should be 81 degrees. This position was established when the relay was on the bench to make it easier to line up once it was fitted. You can just see the bottom relay lever in the photo on the left in relation to the one on top. The bottom incidentally is 90 degrees from the track rod when fitted. The drag link was then fitted whilst maintaining the position of the relay and steering box. A bit of a fiddle but worth doing correctly.
Before fitting the track rod and steering tube I decided to take up any play in the steering box. This is done by loosening the lock nut and turning the square adjuster by hand clockwise to tighten until it stops. Check the steering by rotating lock to lock, it should still rotate freely without binding. If not back off the adjuster a touch. Don’t forget to tighten the lock nut! The adjuster is found on the side of the steering box underneath a cover in the o/s wheel arch as seen in the photo below.(Cover removed)
Once your happy everything is in the correct position ensure everything is tightened up correctly to the correct torque and that both the steering box and the relay is topped with EP 90 oil before fitting the track rod and steering tube. Its also now worth getting your tracking professionally checked to ensure tyre longevity and correct steering geometry.
© Copyright seriesdiesellandrover.com 2013 All rights reserved
Adjuster and Lock nut