point in its past but luckily someone had already drilled it out and had replaced it with a nut and bolt which unbolted and came straight out. The other two studs needed cleaning up and a die running down them but were serviceable so I left them in situ. A new third stud was duly ordered and the existing hole was freshly tapped and the stud fitted with the help of some stud lock. Luckily for me whoever had drilled out the hole hadn’t drilled it to big, either that or the threads had been ripped out by the old stud and a bolt fitted in its place. Either way its now sorted with three studs as Land Rover intended. The condition of the manifold itself wasn’t brilliant but I reckoned that it was good for a few more years yet so I rubbed it down and painted with heat resistant paint. This would probably prove to be a wasted exercise as any paint, heat resistant or not tends to burn off fairly rapidly once the engine is up and running.
A word of warning here, what ever colour you decide to use if your using heat resistant paint check it before committing yourself. I thought a nice post box red would look nice against the duck egg, aluminium and black, however the manifold is now a nice shade of Day Glo orange……. Oh well I’m not repainting it now but ‘hopefully’ it will burn off soon. Next I tackled the engine mounts which needed nothing more than a degrease In my trusty parts washer, a rub down and repaint.
The rubber components that these sit on were replaced and the fixing bolts checked and cleaned up. Next on the list of jobs that needed attention was the Fuel Injectors and Fuel Injector pump. I stripped, cleaned and inspected the Injectors and renewed the nozzle assemblies before building back up. The fuel pump and Injectors were then taken to a specialist Diesel Injection Garage where the pump was overhauled before both pump and Injectors were tested for the correct
delivery pressure. However these were going to take a bit of time, so I moved on whilst these were being sorted. Next I tackled the oil filter, this was obviously fitted with a new cartridge and rubber seals before assembling and fitting to the block using a new gasket. Fit this after you’ve adjusted the fuel pump timing as there is a grub screw behind the gasket which holds the pump drive in place. The brass piece on the top of the filter is for the oil pressure switch that's
connected to the dash light and also where the pipe screws on that feeds the capillary oil pressure gauge. (See below.) I tidied up the engine bay and gave it a lick of paint before fitting the replacement front propshaft. (See the relevant section elsewhere for details on this.) I was now ready to refit the engine! Just a quick check to make sure I hadn’t forgot any core plugs etc particularly at the back of the engine as these would be near impossible to do once the
Engine is in place. I set up my engine stand and gizmo that allows you to alter the angle of the engine and made sure it was securely attached to the engine lifting brackets. Keeping the engine low to the ground I pushed it to the front of the Land Rover before lifting it high enough to clear the front cross member. I pulled the Land Rover forwards ensuring everything was nice and square and began lowering the engine once it was roughly in the right position.
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