Remove the nuts on top of the engine mounts and gently lift the engine until it just clears the studs. Next put a suitable sized piece of wood in between the gearbox and gearbox cross member to support it once the engine is released from it. Lower the engine until the wood is trapped between the gearbox and cross member. Remove the engine mounts as well as the bell housing bolts whilst the hoist still supports the engine. Be careful not to put your fingers in between the
engine and mounts in case the hoist drops! Pull the hoist away from the front of the vehicle by a couple of inches and give the engine a little wiggle with your hands. It should come free from the gear box and swing away a couple of inches. Lift the engine above the height of the front cross member and either pull the hoist back or push the vehicle back to clear the engine from the engine bay. Lower the engine to just above ground height before moving it to a place of your choice for stripping. I personally mounted mine onto an engine stand which made life a lot easier.
Next I completely stripped the engine before taking it to the local Engine machine shop to have the crank reground and the block re bored to +40. The bottom end was then rebuilt using new heavy duty bearings and new original equipment pistons/rings gudgeon pins etc. These are getting scarce now so if this is the route you want to go down then start looking now! The block was then rubbed down and degreased prior to painting in original duck egg blue engine paint.
Once completely dry I began to reassemble the various components after they had been either renewed, overhauled or thoroughly checked and cleaned. All gaskets/washers/core plugs and most fixings were renewed as a matter of course and all drilled holes had a tap run down them to clear any debris and to ensure the threads were in good condition. The cylinder head received the same treatment and had the valves/valve guides renewed. The inlet and exhaust ports were cleared of
carbon as was the injector housings. The rocker gear was checked and cleaned and was then the head was re assembled using a new thermostat, heater matrix tap, manifold studs, valve stem oil seals, core plugs and gaskets etc. After fitting a new oil pump and replacing the sump, I removed the engine from the stand and mounted it onto a pallet which had a section cut out of it to accommodate the sump. This allowed more access to the rear of the engine and I also felt it was
safer as the weight of the engine increased during the re assembly. Next I fitted the new cam followers, tappet guides and tappets after installing the cam shaft. and then started refitting the ancillaries such as the starter motor and alternator as well as the fuel pump, oil dipstick tube and block drain tap. The head was reunited with the block complete with rocker shaft as well as new push rods but leaving the valve clearances until I was ready to set the valve timing.
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